Work in Progress - Panzer 38t
 

Hello,

I'm trying new techniques such as chipping and streaks, and this is my latest model, a Dragon Panzer38t.

These are the results of the turret and wheels so far, so please let me know what you guys think !

Best Regards
Julian

That looks really good...more! More!!

Julian,

The results look pretty amazing. Could you post and SBS on how you did it?

The only thing I want to point out is that the paint on an in service vehicle would not peel that way. I have seen peeling and weathering like that on vehicles that are on museum grounds and have been exposed to the elements for many, many years.

dave

While the color of the rubber on the roadwheel doesnt feel quite right to me, the texture of it looks great...how was that achieved?
For rubber I nearly always mix some India Ink into my color. Being water-based it will mix with most acrylic paints and seems to add a certain sheen to the paint. For new rubber I mix black and red, for older rubber I go for a dark gray. Bear in mind that rubber is dyed...natural rubber is white.

I do also agree with David that your paint weathering has a unique look that may not be considered "common" among service AFVs. As a modeler I find it a little peculiar. As an artist I think it looks tremendous...some of the most interesting weathering I've seen. Accuracy VS Art. It's tough sometimes!

Hello Guys, Thanks for posting.

The paint process was a test for artistic reasons on working with new techniques (For me) such as chipping and streaks, so this kit will be based on artistic weathering only for now.

I wanted to try heavy and moderate chipping, combined withe rust streaks, vallejo new washes and AK products, and also the "border" technique as to paint the border of the chipped area a lighter color to achieve depth, wich turned out great.

As the wheel and rubber, it's also a test for pigments, the actual color is Tire black from gunze, and it looks nice up close. The weathering on the rubber band on that wheel is now repainted and will try some new approach closer to life like colors.

The wear of the rubber was made using extensive hours of dremmel tool, x-acto and extra thin glue (Dentist product called JET, a two-part liquid and powder to make resin and molds, I use the liquid part to solder the plastic)

I will now base the whole tank on the same artistic approach for weathering, just to clear this one aout and start a new model with all I have learned here and tested.

Please keep those comments, and will post some more pics of more parts as I go along.

Thanks you, feedback is important,
Regards
Julian

I must admit I'm not familiar with the "border" technique but I think it looks great. If I were to try that, I think as a personal preference, I might feather blend that transition between the highlight color and the base behind it. That said, again, I really like the effect yiu achieved.

The chipping is very nice. I took note of it, as I've been meaning to work on that technique myself so it's good to see others' examples. Nice work!

Yes, I agree with Whiterook. There is a 3-D effect that the color change makes, which can be beneficial, but it almost gives the work a printed-on feeling. While this is a very interesting effect, I do think it lacks some realism. I realize too that you are experimenting, and I can relate to that. The majority of my Bad Kitty thread is experimentation! At any rate you've come up with some innovative and interesting techniques that will find purpose for sure.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I'm really pleased with the new possibilities those techniques has showed me until now.

I'm very pleased with the chipping results, it took some time to know how much chipping fluid to apply, for how long and how to chip it off with the brush (Warm/heated Distilled water is the best)

Some areas are overdone, that's when I lost some control , the paint had not dried fully, and it peeled off too much in some areas, but that was ok, because now I could test the border highlight technique to add depth , and it looks very nice, but almost cartoonish, unreal for AFV, at least real ones for sure.

I'm into some Fantasy subjects (Pegaso 1/6 "Lightbringer" Bust, Scale75 75mm "Abyssal Warlord" Figure and some more) and I think this approach will look great on those subjects.

Once I get past this 38t, I will moderate all I have learned here with the new techniques. The Streak effects from AK are amazing and easy to work with also, great results (Better than Oils in my view) but the pigments are giving me some problem, with the fixer. I use the Mig Pigment Fixer and it does two things wrong, it changes the actual color of the pigment, witch will never be the same as applied after the fixer, and it dries to a gloss, sticky-like finish (rubber tread on the wheel pic) and I had to re-paint this part. I'm trying now to mix 80% white spirit to 20% Pigment fixer, and it looks a lot better, matt and won't abscure the original appearence of the pigment.

But I am pleased that you guys somehow liked the results, I'm trying all of those techniques at once, and now I can have more control and decide how much is too much for the "not test" subjects I will build.

Keep those comments,
I'll post some new pics this week.

Regards
Julian

Here are two pics, one of the Wheel without pigments, just washes and chipping.
The rubber tread looks more realistic since the pigment fixer is not coming along great.

The other pic is a rust test made with pigments, and rust wash, that looks amazing , to me. Very nice for extensive rusting and large areas.
The wash (Vallejo Rust Wash) is mixed with 50% gun metal pigments and light rust pigments.
It adds texture and tones.

Let mw know what you guys think,
Regards
Julian

you do a really great job on testing all the different techniques ,the rust looks ...like rust