No, this is not a figment of your imagination. I am actually posting something on my vBench for the first time in probably six months. While I have been building a few kits during that time, I have not been taking pictures of the builds. It seems I have had the energy to build but not paint or document my progress lately.
I hope to change that with this kit. It is the pretty much the same older Jagdtiger kit (which isn't too shabby) with some new additions. The roadwheels are much better defined then the older kit. It includes a mammoth metal barrel, PE screens and tie downs, metal tow hooks, braided wire for the tow cables, some ammo and well..I think that's about it.
Now I must start by saying I took at least dozen pictures showing the process I have started to get very use to with individual track links. Frequently I read threads started by frustrated modellers lamenting indy track links or how Dragon's Magic Tracks are not so magic. I DO NOT fall into this category. I love 'em! No snipping, clipping, blah blah blah. Just open the bag and go. Anyway, I digress. I had these photos to post here of my process using this kit as a guide. Much to my dismay my memory card in my digital camera got re-formated and I lost the photos!
So I will have to show just the after pictures, but prove that it can be done so that the tracks can be assembled and then removed for ease of painting. Here are the shots of the tracks on the RHS of the tank. I really tried to simulate the position of the tracks as the vehicle moves forward. With the treads not really touching the first few roadwheels when a tank begins it's forward momentum.
A better shot:
Now the shots of the track removed:
My process (in words unfortunately) is pretty simple. I attach the roadwheels, idlers and sprockets to the suspension sans glue. If I am having difficulty getting them to stay while handling the model then I will use some liquid poly sparingly so that they can be pulled off.
I then use a section of Tamiya masking tape and place it around the roadwheels, etc to get a rough estimate of the length of track needed. You do not want to come up short half-way through the process. I then lay the masking tape down on the surface of my workbench and begin to put the tracks together. With the Magic Tracks there is enough friction that the tracks hold together pretty well and I can assemble the entire run before using any glue.
When the run is together (matching the length of the tape) I then apply Tamiya extra thin cement to the links. I allow this to try for about twenty minutes. By the time the glue has had a sufficient amount of time to bond the tracks yet remain flexible. I then affix them to the tank, ensuring that the proper sag, etc is evident and leave them on to dry for about an hour.
At this point if all is done correctly, you simply need to remove the sprocket and idler and the tracks will come off with them. I have used this method successfully now for about ten models. And with the Magic Tracks I can have a side done and drying within 40 minutes (including the drying time prior to placing them on the model.
Threaded Mode
